Asia

Laos

Wooden longboats pulled up on a river beach beneath steep forested mountains

Slow boats down the Mekong, turquoise waterfalls and the most relaxed pace in Southeast Asia.

Laos is the quiet one in the region. Most backpackers arrive on the two-day slow boat from Thailand to Luang Prabang, a town of saffron-robed monks and French bakeries, then head south to the karst valleys of Vang Vieng.

The fast train from Luang Prabang to Vientiane has made the north much easier to cover. Further south, the Thakhek motorbike loop and the river islands of Si Phan Don are where people end up staying longer than planned.

Good to know

Time zone
GMT+7
Plugs
Types A, B, C, E and F, 230V
Emergency numbers
1191 police, 1195 ambulance, 1190 fire
Tap water
Drink bottled or filtered
Traffic drives on the
Right
Tipping
Not expected, though leaving the small change at restaurants and tipping trekking guides is appreciated.
SIM cards
Unitel and Lao Telecom SIMs with a data package cost around 50,000–100,000 kip; bring your passport to register.

When to go to Laos

Best months to go: November to February. Pick a month to see what it’s like.

Bars show rainfall; numbers are the average daytime high. Amber marks the best months to go.

September

Still wet, but easing. The Mekong is at its highest.

Daytime high
32°C
Rainfall
190 mm
Crowds
Quiet

What Laos costs

Work out a budget for your trip, then check what everyday things cost.

How do you travel?

Dorm beds, street food and public transport.

14 days

$434for 14 days, about $31 a day (₭9,330,000 in total)

Bed$8$112
Food and drink$9$126
Getting around$6$84
Things to do$5$70
Everything else$3$42

Per person, in US dollars. Flights and insurance not included.

What things cost

  • Bowl of khao piak sen₭30,000, about $1.40
  • Baguette sandwich from a street stall₭25,000, about $1.16
  • Large Beerlao in a bar₭30,000, about $1.40
  • Hostel dorm bed₭110,000, about $5.12
  • Kuang Si Falls entry₭60,000, about $2.79
  • Slow boat, Huay Xai to Luang Prabang₭550,000, about $26
  • Train, Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng, second class₭250,000, about $12

Routes through Laos

Where to go and how long to stay, for the time you’ve got.

14 nights, 6 stops

The classic north-to-south run: slow boat in from Thailand, then the train down to the capital.

  1. Huay Xai

    1 night

    Cross from Chiang Khong and catch the slow boat early next morning.

  2. Pakbeng

    1 night

    An overnight stop halfway down the Mekong.

  3. Luang Prabang

    4 nights

    Temples, the night market, Kuang Si Falls and the morning alms giving.

  4. Nong Khiaw

    3 nights

    Karst peaks over the Nam Ou and a sunrise hike to the viewpoint.

  5. Vang Vieng

    3 nights

    Tubing, kayaking, blue lagoons and hot-air balloons over the karsts.

  6. Vientiane

    2 nights

    A laid-back capital with the COPE centre and Mekong sunsets.

Getting around

  • Train

    $10–25 per trip

    The Laos–China railway links Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane in a few hours. Buy tickets on the LCR app or at the station, and bring your passport.

  • Boat

    $25–30 for the two-day slow boat

    The slow boat down the Mekong is a highlight. Bring snacks and a cushion; the seats are hard.

  • Minibus

    $8–20 for a long trip

    Tourist minibuses link most backpacker stops, with hotel pickup. Mountain roads are winding.

  • Bus

    $10–20 for a long overnight trip

    Sleeper buses run south from Vientiane to Thakhek and Pakse. Beds are often shared doubles.

  • Motorbike

    $8–12 a day to hire

    Semi-automatics are the norm for the Thakhek Loop. Check brakes and tyres, and carry your licence.

What to eat and drink

  • Larb

    Minced meat or fish tossed with lime, herbs and toasted rice. The national dish.

    ₭40,000, about $1.86

  • Khao piak sen

    Thick rice noodles in a clear chicken broth. A breakfast favourite.

    ₭30,000, about $1.40

  • Khao niao

    Sticky rice, served in a small basket and eaten with your hands.

    ₭10,000, about $0.47

  • Tam mak hoong

    Lao papaya salad, funkier and hotter than the Thai version.

    ₭25,000, about $1.16

  • Khao jee pâté

    A baguette with pâté, pickles and chilli sauce, from the French years.

    ₭25,000, about $1.16

  • Beerlao

    The national beer, cheap and everywhere. Try the dark version too.

    ₭30,000, about $1.40

Say it like a local

A few words go a long way. Tap “Hear it” to listen, where your browser can.

  • Hello

    ສະບາຍດີ

    sa-bai-dee

  • Thank you

    ຂອບໃຈ

    kop jai

  • How much?

    ເທົ່າໃດ?

    tao dai

  • Too expensive

    ແພງໂພດ

    paeng poht

  • Not spicy, please

    ບໍ່ເຜັດ

    baw pet

  • Delicious

    ແຊບ

    saep

  • No problem

    ບໍ່ເປັນຫຍັງ

    baw pen nyang

  • Cheers!

    ຕຳຈອກ!

    tam jok

Questions travellers ask

Is the slow boat worth it?

Yes, if you have the time. Two days on the Mekong is a relaxed, social way to arrive, and much nicer than the winding bus.

Do I need cash?

Yes. ATMs have low withdrawal limits and fees, so bring some US dollars or Thai baht to change. Kip is hard to exchange outside Laos, so spend it before you leave.

Can I join the alms giving in Luang Prabang?

You can watch from a respectful distance on the opposite side of the street. Do not use flash, and only take part if you would do so for your own faith.

Is tubing in Vang Vieng still a party?

Much calmer than it used to be. A few riverside bars remain, but most people come for the caves, lagoons and kayaking. Do not tube after heavy rain.

Should I worry about unexploded bombs?

In remote areas, yes. Stick to marked paths in the countryside and visit the COPE centre in Vientiane to understand why.