Asia

India

The Taj Mahal and its minarets behind a long reflecting pool lined with cypress trees

Desert forts, holy rivers, Himalayan passes and a thali for a couple of dollars.

India is huge and loud and endlessly rewarding. Most first trips start in Delhi and loop through the Taj Mahal and the forts and lake palaces of Rajasthan, then head east to the ghats of Varanasi on the Ganges.

Sleeper trains make the distances manageable and save a night’s accommodation. In winter, head south to the beaches of Goa and the backwaters of Kerala; in summer, go north to the mountains of Ladakh.

Good to know

Time zone
GMT+5:30
Plugs
Types C, D and M, 230V
Emergency numbers
112 for all emergencies, 100 police, 108 ambulance
Tap water
Drink bottled or filtered
Traffic drives on the
Left
Tipping
Not expected at street stalls, but around 10% in sit-down restaurants and a tip for drivers and guides is normal.
SIM cards
Airtel and Jio SIMs cost about 300–700 rupees for a month with plenty of data; you need your passport and a photo, and activation can take a few hours.

When to go to India

Best months to go: October to March. Pick a month to see what it’s like.

Bars show rainfall; numbers are the average daytime high. Amber marks the best months to go.

September

The rains ease from the north-west, but it is still hot and sticky.

Daytime high
34°C
Rainfall
120 mm
Crowds
Quiet

What India costs

Work out a budget for your trip, then check what everyday things cost.

How do you travel?

Dorm beds, street food and public transport.

14 days

$308for 14 days, about $22 a day (₹27,100 in total)

Bed$7$98
Food and drink$6$84
Getting around$4$56
Things to do$3$42
Everything else$2$28

Per person, in US dollars. Flights and insurance not included.

What things cost

  • Veg thali at a local restaurant₹150, about $1.70
  • Cup of masala chai₹20, about $0.23
  • Samosa from a street stall₹20, about $0.23
  • Large bottle of Kingfisher in a bar₹250, about $2.84
  • Hostel dorm bed₹600, about $6.82
  • Sleeper class train, Delhi to Varanasi₹500, about $5.68
  • Short auto-rickshaw ride₹100, about $1.14
  • Taj Mahal ticket for foreign visitors₹1,100, about $13

Routes through India

Where to go and how long to stay, for the time you’ve got.

14 nights, 6 stops

The Golden Triangle and the best of Rajasthan, moving by train and overnight bus.

  1. Delhi

    2 nights

    Old Delhi’s lanes, the Jama Masjid and parathas in Chandni Chowk.

  2. Agra

    2 nights

    The Taj Mahal at sunrise and the red walls of Agra Fort.

  3. Jaipur

    3 nights

    The Amber Fort, the pink old city and its bazaars.

  4. Pushkar

    2 nights

    A small holy town around a lake, with rooftop cafés and desert walks.

  5. Jodhpur

    2 nights

    The blue city below the huge Mehrangarh Fort.

  6. Udaipur

    3 nights

    Lake palaces, sunset boat rides and a slower pace.

Getting around

  • Train

    $6–15 in sleeper class, $12–30 in 3AC

    The best way to cover long distances. Book early on the IRCTC site or an agent app, as popular trains sell out weeks ahead.

  • Bus

    $5–15 for an overnight sleeper bus

    Private sleeper buses fill the gaps where trains are slow or full, especially in Rajasthan and the south.

  • Tuk-tuk

    $1–3 across town

    Agree the fare before you get in, or book through Uber, Ola or Rapido to skip the haggling.

  • Flight

    $30–80 one way

    IndiGo and Air India Express are cheap for long hops, such as Varanasi to Goa.

  • Motorbike

    $10–20 a day for a Royal Enfield

    Popular in Goa and Ladakh. Roads are chaotic, so only ride if you are experienced and licensed.

What to eat and drink

  • Thali

    A round tray of rice, breads, dal, curries and pickles, often with refills.

    ₹150, about $1.70

  • Masala dosa

    A huge, crisp rice pancake stuffed with spiced potato. A southern breakfast.

    ₹80, about $0.91

  • Chole bhature

    Spicy chickpeas with puffed fried bread. Heavy, cheap and very Delhi.

    ₹120, about $1.36

  • Biryani

    Rice layered with spiced meat or vegetables and cooked slowly. Hyderabad’s is the most famous.

    ₹250, about $2.84

  • Masala chai

    Sweet, milky tea brewed with ginger and cardamom, sold on every corner and train platform.

    ₹20, about $0.23

  • Lassi

    A thick yoghurt drink, sweet or salted. Varanasi’s come topped with cream.

    ₹60, about $0.68

Say it like a local

A few words go a long way. Tap “Hear it” to listen, where your browser can.

  • Hello

    नमस्ते

    nuh-muh-stay

  • Thank you

    धन्यवाद

    dhun-yuh-vaad

  • How much is it?

    कितने का है?

    kit-nay kaa hai

  • Too expensive

    बहुत महँगा है

    buh-hut meh-ngaa hai

  • Less spicy, please

    कम तीखा बनाइए

    kum tee-khaa buh-naa-ee-ay

  • Very tasty

    बहुत स्वादिष्ट

    buh-hut swaa-disht

  • No, thank you

    नहीं, धन्यवाद

    nuh-heen, dhun-yuh-vaad

  • Let’s go

    चलो

    chuh-lo

Questions travellers ask

How do I avoid getting ill?

Drink bottled or filtered water and eat at busy stalls where food is cooked in front of you. Most travellers get a stomach bug at some point, so pack rehydration salts.

How do I book trains?

Use the IRCTC website or an app like ixigo or ConfirmTkt, and book as early as you can. If a train is full, try the tourist quota at big stations or the Tatkal tickets released the day before.

What scams should I watch for?

Be wary of anyone who says your hotel has closed, your train is cancelled or you need to visit a “government tourist office”. Book taxis and rickshaws through an app when you arrive somewhere new.

Is India safe for women travelling alone?

Many women travel India solo and love it, but staring and unwanted attention are common. Dress modestly, use the women-only carriages and ladies’ queues, and avoid arriving late at night.

Do I need cash?

Yes, for street food, rickshaws and small guesthouses. Cards work in cities and bigger hotels, and ATMs are everywhere, though many charge a fee for foreign cards.