Africa
Egypt
The pyramids, the temples of Luxor and a night on a felucca down the Nile.
Egypt is one long river trip. Start in Cairo for the pyramids and the Grand Egyptian Museum, take the sleeper train south to Aswan, then drift north past temples to Luxor and the Valley of the Kings.
Finish on the Red Sea in Dahab, a laid-back backpacker town with some of the cheapest diving in the world. Hassle at the big sites can be tiring, but food and transport are cheap and people are warm and funny.
Good to know
- Time zone
- GMT+2, GMT+3 in summer
- Plugs
- Types C and F, 220V
- Emergency numbers
- 122 police, 123 ambulance, 126 tourist police
- Tap water
- Drink bottled or filtered
- Traffic drives on the
- Right
- Tipping
- Baksheesh is part of daily life: 10% in restaurants, and 10–20 pounds for anyone who helps you, from guards to drivers.
- SIM cards
- Vodafone, Orange and WE SIMs with 10–20GB cost around 500–1,000 pounds at the airport, and less at a shop in town.
When to go to Egypt
Best months to go: October to March. Pick a month to see what it’s like.
Bars show rainfall; numbers are the average daytime high. Amber marks the best months to go.
September
Still very hot in the south, but the sea is at its warmest.
- Daytime high
- 33°C
- Rainfall
- 0 mm
- Crowds
- Quiet
| Month | Daytime high | Rainfall | Crowds | Best time to go |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | 19°C | 5 mm | Peak season | Yes |
| February | 21°C | 4 mm | Peak season | Yes |
| March | 24°C | 4 mm | Busy | Yes |
| April | 28°C | 1 mm | Busy | No |
| May | 32°C | 0 mm | Quiet | No |
| June | 34°C | 0 mm | Quiet | No |
| July | 35°C | 0 mm | Quiet | No |
| August | 35°C | 0 mm | Quiet | No |
| September | 33°C | 0 mm | Quiet | No |
| October | 30°C | 1 mm | Busy | Yes |
| November | 25°C | 3 mm | Peak season | Yes |
| December | 21°C | 6 mm | Peak season | Yes |
What Egypt costs
Work out a budget for your trip, then check what everyday things cost.
$518for 14 days, about $37 a day (E£25,400 in total)
| Cost | Per day | For the trip | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed | $10 | $140 | |
| Food and drink | $7 | $98 | |
| Getting around | $5 | $70 | |
| Things to do | $12 | $168 | |
| Everything else | $3 | $42 |
Per person, in US dollars. Flights and insurance not included.
What things cost
- Bowl of koshariE£60, about $1.22
- Ta’ameya sandwichE£15, about $0.31
- Glass of tea at an ahwaE£20, about $0.41
- Bottle of Stella beer in a barE£100, about $2.04
- Hostel dorm bed in CairoE£450, about $9.18
- Cairo metro rideE£15, about $0.31
- Giza pyramids plateau entryE£700, about $14
Routes through Egypt
Where to go and how long to stay, for the time you’ve got.
14 nights, 5 stops
The classic Nile trip: pyramids, a sleeper train to Aswan, a felucca north and a few days by the Red Sea.
Cairo
4 nights
The pyramids, the Grand Egyptian Museum and the old streets of Islamic Cairo.
Aswan
3 nights
Nubian villages, Philae temple and a very early trip to Abu Simbel.
Felucca on the Nile
1 night
Sail north from Aswan and sleep on deck under the stars.
Luxor
3 nights
Karnak, the Valley of the Kings and a bike ride round the west bank.
Dahab
3 nights
Snorkel the Blue Hole and climb Mount Sinai for sunrise.
Getting around
Train
$10–20 for a seat, $90–120 for a sleeper berth
Trains run the length of the Nile. The overnight sleeper from Cairo to Aswan saves a night’s accommodation.
Private car
$2–6 across Cairo by app
Uber and Careem work in Cairo and Alexandria and save arguing over taxi fares.
Bus
$8–20 for a long trip
Go Bus and Blue Bus link Cairo with Alexandria, Siwa, Hurghada and Dahab, often overnight.
Boat
$25–50 a night on a felucca
Traditional sailing boats from Aswan, with meals and a mattress on deck.
Flight
$40–90 one way
EgyptAir and Nile Air link Cairo with Luxor, Aswan and Sharm el-Sheikh in about an hour.
What to eat and drink
Koshari
Rice, lentils, pasta and chickpeas under tomato sauce and fried onions. Cairo’s great cheap meal.
E£60, about $1.22
Ta’ameya
Egyptian falafel made with fava beans, stuffed into baladi bread for breakfast.
E£15, about $0.31
Ful medames
Slow-cooked fava beans with oil, cumin and lemon, scooped up with bread.
E£25, about $0.51
Molokhia
A thick green soup of jute leaves and garlic, served with rice and chicken.
E£120, about $2.45
Feteer meshaltet
Flaky layered pastry eaten with honey, cheese or molasses.
E£100, about $2.04
Karkadé
Hibiscus tea, served cold in summer and hot in winter.
E£25, about $0.51
Say it like a local
A few words go a long way. Tap “Hear it” to listen, where your browser can.
Hello
أهلاً
Say it like: ah-lan
Thank you
شكراً
Say it like: shook-ran
How much?
بكام؟
Say it like: bi-kaam
Too expensive
غالي أوي
Say it like: gha-lee aw-ee
No, thank you
لا، شكراً
Say it like: la, shook-ran
That’s enough, finished
خلاص
Say it like: kha-las
God willing
إن شاء الله
Say it like: in-sha-al-lah
Let’s go
يلا
Say it like: yal-la
Questions travellers ask
How bad is the hassle?
At Giza, Luxor and the big souks it can be constant. A firm, friendly “la, shukran” and walking on works best; never accept a free camel ride or a “gift”.
Do I need cash?
Yes, and lots of small notes for tips and tickets. Cards work at the big sites and hotels, but not at street food stalls or on microbuses.
Is it worth getting a student card?
Yes. A valid ISIC card gets you around half price at most sites, which adds up quickly in Luxor.
What should I wear?
Cover shoulders and knees away from the beach resorts, and bring a scarf for mosques. Loose, light clothes help in the heat too.
Is Dahab worth the trip?
For most backpackers it is the highlight. It is cheap, relaxed and has world-class snorkelling right off the seafront.