Europe
Albania
Empty mountain trails, Ottoman towns and Ionian beaches, at a fraction of the price of its neighbours.
Albania was closed to the world for decades, and it is still catching up with its own popularity. Hike from Theth to Valbona in the Accursed Mountains, wander the white Ottoman houses of Berat and Gjirokastër, then finish on the beaches of the Albanian Riviera.
It is the cheapest country in this corner of Europe. Furgons (shared minibuses) cost a few euros, a plate of byrek costs less than a coffee in Italy, and family-run guesthouses feed you raki whether you ask or not.
Good to know
- Time zone
- GMT+1, GMT+2 in summer
- Plugs
- Types C and F, 230V
- Emergency numbers
- 129 police, 127 ambulance, 128 fire
- Tap water
- Drink bottled or filtered
- Traffic drives on the
- Right
- Tipping
- Not expected, but rounding up or leaving around 10% in restaurants is appreciated.
- SIM cards
- Vodafone and One prepaid SIMs with 20 GB or more of data cost around 1,000–1,500 lek; bring your passport.
When to go to Albania
Best months to go: May to June and September to October. Pick a month to see what it’s like.
Bars show rainfall; numbers are the average daytime high. Amber marks the best months to go.
SeptemberBest time to go
Warm sea, fewer people and the best hiking weather in the mountains.
- Daytime high
- 28°C
- Rainfall
- 70 mm
- Crowds
- Busy
| Month | Daytime high | Rainfall | Crowds | Best time to go |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | 12°C | 140 mm | Quiet | No |
| February | 13°C | 130 mm | Quiet | No |
| March | 16°C | 110 mm | Quiet | No |
| April | 19°C | 100 mm | Quiet | No |
| May | 24°C | 90 mm | Busy | Yes |
| June | 28°C | 60 mm | Busy | Yes |
| July | 31°C | 30 mm | Peak season | No |
| August | 31°C | 40 mm | Peak season | No |
| September | 28°C | 70 mm | Busy | Yes |
| October | 23°C | 110 mm | Quiet | Yes |
| November | 17°C | 170 mm | Quiet | No |
| December | 13°C | 160 mm | Quiet | No |
What Albania costs
Work out a budget for your trip, then check what everyday things cost.
$532for 14 days, about $38 a day (ALL 47,900 in total)
| Cost | Per day | For the trip | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed | $14 | $196 | |
| Food and drink | $12 | $168 | |
| Getting around | $5 | $70 | |
| Things to do | $4 | $56 | |
| Everything else | $3 | $42 |
Per person, in US dollars. Flights and insurance not included.
What things cost
- Byrek from a bakeryALL 150, about $1.67
- Plate of qofte with salad and breadALL 600, about $6.67
- EspressoALL 100, about $1.11
- Bottle of Korça beer in a barALL 250, about $2.78
- Hostel dorm bedALL 1,500, about $17
- City bus ride in TiranaALL 40, about $0.44
- Furgon, Tirana to ShkodërALL 500, about $5.56
Routes through Albania
Where to go and how long to stay, for the time you’ve got.
14 nights, 8 stops
The mountains of the north, the Ottoman towns of the south and a few days on the Riviera, mostly by furgon.
Tirana
2 nights
Bunk’Art, the colourful Blloku district and the cable car up Mount Dajti.
Shkodër
1 night
Rozafa castle and a bike ride along the lake.
Theth
2 nights
Walk to the Blue Eye of Theth and the Grunas waterfall.
Valbona
1 night
Hike over the pass from Theth, then take the Lake Komani ferry back south.
Berat
2 nights
The town of a thousand windows, with a lived-in castle on the hill.
Gjirokastër
2 nights
Stone-roofed houses, a huge castle and the bazaar below it.
Ksamil
2 nights
Turquoise water, the ruins of Butrint and a stop at the Blue Eye spring on the way in.
Himarë
2 nights
A laid-back Riviera town with coves you can walk to.
Getting around
Minibus
$3–15 per trip
Furgons link every town. There are few timetables: ask at your hostel where they leave from, and expect them to go when full.
Bus
$5–15 for a long trip
Big buses run from Tirana’s regional bus terminal on the edge of the city to the main towns. Slower than furgons, but more comfortable.
Ferry
$10–15 one way
The Lake Komani ferry runs through a flooded gorge between Koman and Fierzë, linking Shkodër with Valbona.
Private car
$25–45 a day to hire
Useful for the coast and remote valleys. Driving is erratic and mountain roads are slow, so take your time.
What to eat and drink
Byrek
Flaky pastry filled with cheese, spinach or meat. Breakfast, lunch or a snack on the bus.
ALL 150, about $1.67
Tavë kosi
Baked lamb and rice under a set yoghurt and egg crust. The national dish.
ALL 800, about $8.89
Fërgesë
Peppers, tomatoes and soft cheese cooked together in a clay pot. Scoop it up with bread.
ALL 500, about $5.56
Qofte
Grilled minced meat patties, served with chips, salad and yoghurt.
ALL 600, about $6.67
Trileçe
Sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk, with a caramel top.
ALL 250, about $2.78
Raki
Strong grape or plum spirit, often homemade and offered as a welcome.
ALL 150, about $1.67
Say it like a local
A few words go a long way. Tap “Hear it” to listen, where your browser can.
Hello
Përshëndetje
Say it like: per-shen-det-yeh
Thank you
Faleminderit
Say it like: fah-leh-meen-deh-reet
Please
Ju lutem
Say it like: yoo loo-tem
Yes
Po
Say it like: poh
No
Jo
Say it like: yoh
How much is it?
Sa kushton?
Say it like: sah koosh-ton
Cheers!
Gëzuar!
Say it like: guh-zoo-ar
Goodbye
Mirupafshim
Say it like: meer-oo-pahf-sheem
Questions travellers ask
Why did they shake their head when they meant yes?
Many Albanians, especially older people, shake their head for yes and nod for no. Listen for “po” and “jo” instead of watching their head.
Do I need cash?
Yes. Furgons, guesthouses and most small restaurants are cash only. Euros are widely accepted on the coast, but you get a better deal paying in lek.
When can I hike from Theth to Valbona?
From around June to early October, once the pass is clear of snow. It takes six to eight hours, and guesthouses on both sides can arrange transfers and the Komani ferry.
How do I find the right furgon?
In Tirana, most leave from the regional bus terminal. Elsewhere they leave from a street corner or roundabout rather than a station, and times change often. Ask your hostel for the current spot and leave early, as fewer run in the afternoon.
Is it safe?
Albania is very safe for travellers and people are famously hospitable. The biggest risk is the driving, so take care on mountain roads and when crossing the street.